
Image taken on 2006-03-02 16:36:31 by betta design.
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Hong Kong! The legendary Chinese city of life and lights, where millionaires rub shoulders with fresh-off-the-boat immigrants, skyscrapers overshadow shanties and class division are as dramatic as the neon that illuminates it all.
Located on the southernmost banks of the Chinese mainland and pressed against the South China Sea, there truly is nowhere else in the world like Hong Kong, for Hong Kong is the World.
It is the best of Beijing and Bangkok, London and Las Vegas, New York and New Delhi; one of the most densely populated dependencies (a landmass of only 1,000 square kilometers for seven million residents), with one of the world’s largest revolving multinational communities. Indeed, a stroll around Tsim Sha Tsui (pronounced jimsawjoy), the city’s tourist and trade center on the southern Kowloon peninsula, reveals the entire human race in one square block radius: white people in pastel shorts walking side by side with majestically robed Africans, turbaned sheiks haggling with short-tempered Cantonese vendors, and street-corner Hindu hustlers harassing, well, everyone.
The nucleus of TST’s international community is found on south Nathan Road, which buzzes 24 hours a day not unlike a third-world beehive. The thoroughfare is lit up with electronics, hazy with Indian incense and resonant with 200bpm Arabic music. It is a warren of the world, a global party, and everyone is invited. As a tailor from Pakistan profoundly puts it, it’s the politicians who draw the borders, otherwise we are all friends here.
And speaking of borders, Victoria Harbor seems a good excuse to divide the colorful crowds of Kowloon with the white-collared world of Hong Kong Island, the territory’s banking and finance center. It is across these deep, reflective waters, which at night appear as a veritable liquid rainbow beneath the neon of corporate office towers and designer department stores, where the former crown colony’s elite live, work, shop and play. English-speaking Hong Kong, which transferred sovereignty from Britain to the People’s Republic in 1997, is 9 percent Chinese save for a wealthier class, namely from South Asian countries and the west, who contribute to the Special Administrative Region’s economic might with an unparalleled per capita GDP (310,000 yuan compared to Shanghai’s diminutive 47,000 yuan) that rivals most ofwest Europe and is the highest in China.
Hong Kong also happens to boast the most millionaires in the entire Asian continent. They are strikingly handsome or unabashedly beautiful. They attire themselves in dark designer suits with razorblade creases and immaculately shined shoes, or dangerously short skirts and even more dangerous stiletto heels. Every automobile in Hong Kong Island not a red taxi is a Ferrari, new-model Jaguar or a white-walled vintage Mercedes. And lest we forget that they drive on what Americans considerto be the wrong side of the road in the British-influenced Hong Kong, look the wrong way before crossing the street and one could get rolled over by a Rolls.
But all that is gold does not necessarily glitter. Beyond Central’s escarpment of skyscrapers and scattered about the region’s subtropical perimeter lay over 20 lesser islands that seem to jump back centuries. Lantau Island on the West Lamma Channel preciously hides the rustic minority village of Tai O and the Tanka people, descendants of Hong Kong’s first settlers.In stark contrast to Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, there is no place in Tai O for finance, fashion or frenzy, where Ferraris are replaced by fishing boats, peasant bags are more useful than Gucci bags, and flip-flops take preference over Prada. The sleepy fishing community of slat-wood, tin-roofed shanties is built completely atop stilts and interconnected by arched bridges occupied by old timers in reed hats whipping their cane rods into the placid delta waters.
Of course, most visitors to Hong Kong will invariably choose Mong Kok to minorities and 500 dollar dim sum to five-dollar fish balls. The compulsion of capitalism, the passion to purchase and the addiction of appearance-it is what Hong Kong has come to be known for, and frankly, to what it owes most of its charm. “Our lives are just like anyone else’s,” chirps a manicured blonde, the wife of a Hong Kong banker, shopping in an upscale boutique in the Soho district, “but with a few more attached.”
Regional cuisine
HK is the dining table of the world: from traditional Cantonese dim sum to Indian curry, New York delis to Mexican tacos, Thai cuisine to Krispy Kreme, not to mention an overflow of McDonalds (150!) and 7-11 (600!). But be prepared for the prices¨CYIKES.
Transportation
If you don’t drive a BMW, don’t despair. Hong Kong’s public transportation is highly efficient, with the Mass Transit Railway (MTR) and Kowloon-Canton Railway (KCR) spanning throughout the New Territories, Kowloon, Lantau and Hong Kong islands. Double-decker trams and buses ply above ground while jetfoils and HK’s beloved Star Ferry continuously whisk commuters across Victoria Harbor. Or just hop in one of the thousands of red taxis.
Accomodation
For budget-conscious travelers, there is no better (or cheaper) place to absorb HK’s multicultural ambiance than the infamous Chungking or Mirador mansions on south Nathan Road in Tsim Sha Tsui. Dorm beds in any of the mansion’s hundreds of claustrophobic guesthouses starting at 60 yuan.
### China photographer Tom Carter is the author of ‘CHINA: Portrait of a People,’ a definitive 600-page book of photography coming soon from Hong Kong publisher Blacksmith Books.
Hong Kong is an eclectic destination, situated on the Pearl River Delta’s eastern side, with Guangdong province and the South China Sea to the south, east, and west. A special administrative region of China, Hong Kong consists of three main areas such as the Hong Kong Island, Kowloon Peninsula, and the New Territories and Outlying Areas.
The Accor Group manages Hotels with the Sofitel, Novotel, Mercure, All Seasons, Ibis, Formule 1, Grand Mercure brands and offers services to corporate clients and public institutions: 23 million people in nearly 40 countries use a broad range of services engineered and managed by Accor Services.
Despite being under British rule until 1997, Hong Kong has one of the world’s most sophisticated public transport systems and the highest percentage of daily journeys made by public means in the world. One of the most innovative methods of transport is the Central-Mid-Levels escalator. The escalator, built to combat the steep, hilly terrain of Hong Kong Island, is 800 metres long with a vertical climb of 135 metres. Without walking to speed up the journey, a trip from one end to the other takes 20 minutes. The escalators run downhill from 6am to 10am and uphill from 10.30am to midnight, to aid people going to and from work. Hong Kong, of course, has some of the more traditional modes of public transport. Its efficient tramways date back from the turn of the 20th century and now feature exclusively double-decker trams. The bus systems runs a predominantly double-decker service, with five companies operating a franchised service. There are also public light buses available which can go to areas the larger buses cannot reach. Similar to minibuses, these contraptions can hold 16 passengers and are often more frequent, more direct and quicker than the standard bus lines. The public transport system was greatly aided in ‘97 by the introduction of the Octopus Card. This card was the first contactless payment system in the world and was initially used to make quick payments for transport tickets; it has now been rolled out for use in supermarkets, at vending machines and restaurants among other shops. The mass transit railway consists of ten lines with a total of 82 railway stations and 68 light rail stops. Eight of these lines act as regular train services while the other two offer direct services – one to Hong Kong Disneyland and the other to the airport – ideal for those leaving the country and for those who have just arrived on flights to Hong Kong. People do also own their own cars, with around half a million in Hong Kong. Most cars can be found in the newly developed areas near the Chinese border as there are few public transport options available. Per capita, the number of cars in Hong Kong works out as half that of Singapore and a third of Taiwan’s figure. Because of the previous British rule, cars in Hong Kong are right hand drive models. Ferries are also prevalent because of Hong Kong’s many islands, as well as external trips linking Hong Kong to many of the nearby islands. The information contained within this article is the opinion of the author and is intended purely for information and interest purposes only. It should not be used to make any decisions or take any actions. Any links are included for information purposes only. |
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